Introducing your Bunny to its new home
In the first 2 days of introducing your bunny to its new home we ask that you refrain from handing him/her to enable them to get used to their new surroundings and settle in. Rabbits can become stressed quite easily so it is imperative they are given time to adjust before being handled.
Hutch Size Guidelines
* The hutch must allow plenty of room for the rabbit to turn around in as well. Rabbits stand up on their back legs to check their environment is safe.
* The rabbit hutch should be long enough for the rabbit to take at least 3-4 hops without bumping its nose on the end
* The rabbit hutch should be tall enough to allow your rabbit to do this without being hunched over or folding its ears against the roof.
* A relaxed rabbit will fully stretch out when resting. The rabbit hutch should be wide enough to allow you rabbit to lie with its legs stretched.
Food & Water
* We feed our bunnies on Dr Johnsons rabbit nuggets which can be found from most pets stores. Nuggets are preferred as they don’t allow the bunnies to be picky about the food (unlike mixed foods). We also mix in barley rings and dried grass.
* If you give your rabbit fresh fruit or vegetables do this slowly and only once or twice a week. DO NOT feed baby rabbits fresh food as their stomachs will be unable to tolerate it straight away. You can introduce it slowly at around 4-5 months old.
* Clean water must be accessible to rabbits at all times. A sipper water bottle is the best choice because it cannot be contaminated with bedding, food, faeces and urine. Rabbits unfamiliar with a sipper bottle may have to be trained to use it.
* It is not necessary to add vitamins to the water if the recommended diets are followed. The disadvantages of adding vitamins to the water include; making the water taste disagreeable and promoting bacterial growth.
Caring for your new Baby rabbit
After the initial settling in stage you can handle your rabbit daily. All our baby rabbits are handled daily from 12 days old so are used to human contact. If being handled by a child we recommend the child is sat down.. This ensures if the rabbit is dropped at any point it won’t get injured. In most cases the baby rabbit will just snuggle in one area but they can be a little adventurous sometimes and have no sense of danger!
Litter Training
* All our bunnies are given litter trays as soon as they are out of the nest. Rabbits are very clean by nature – in the wild they relieve themselves in the same spots and don’t soil inside of their burrows. Domestic rabbits too tend to deposit their urine or pellets in just one or two places and respond well to litter training. Some rabbits learn to use a litter tray by themselves but most need a little help from their carers. Most rabbits quickly learn to urine in a tray, but will still scatter a few droppings on the floor. This is normal bunny behaviour and the few odourless droppings can be removed easily. * We recommend using Wood based cat litter as this absorbs the smell of urine. DO NOT use ordinary cat litter as the dust can cause respiratory problems for your bunny. If in any doubt you can use normal wood shavings.
Dental Care
* The most common complaint is overgrown molars and enamel spurs that grow from teeth. These spurs generally develop because rabbits aren't eating enough forage and hay. These naturally-abrasive, fibre-rich foods are important because they wear down the teeth. Rabbits' teeth grow continuously by an astonishing 2mm every week, or 10-12cm every year.
* Teeth should be checked monthly for any problems. Providing you have a healthy bunny from day one, when buying or re-homing a bunny always check its teeth before committing to it. If it is a rabbit from us we will show you the rabbit’s teeth and how to check them.
* Most problems are either down to incorrect feeding, or an injury. Providing your bunny with plenty of hay and grasses in their diet with rabbit food kept at a minimum. Also Provide your bunny with wood and toys to chew, if your rabbit keeps pulling and chewing at the bars of their cage, provided more simulation or out time to discourage this behaviour as this can damage the alignment of the rabbit's teeth.
Bottom Care
* If you are feeding your bunny correctly it will keep its bottom nice and clean, if you trained your bunny to turn in your arms a quick daily check will be sufficient. If your bunny is a little sticky down below, ease the worse off with baby wipes, then cover with a dry shampoo, rubbing in to the damp soiled areas, and then gently comb the powder and poo out. If your bunny is in a real mess, then you may have to rinse the bottom under a warm running tap or wash in a shallow bowl, do not get the whole bunny wet. Then dry with a towel and use the powder and comb through, do not make your bunny sore. In the winter months the rabbit will have to stay indoors. You then need to think what have you changed that could of upset your bunny. You may need to remove all the bunnies' food just leaving hay for the rabbit to nibble on, until the rabbit is producing hard poo.
* Make sure your rabbit is drinking. If there is no change and the rabbit is still getting messy please consult your vet. Remember Diarrhoea can kill. Use the Fly Guard if your rabbit regular suffers with a messy bum.
Toe Nail Care
* Rabbits need their nails/claws trimmed regularly, Rabbits have constantly growing nails, and if they are left to grow unchecked, they can lead to health problems and pain for your rabbit. If you're new to rabbit keeping, you may find that clipping the nails is a scary proposition. You don't want to hit the nerve and make your darling rabbit bleed. If you have trained your bunny from a young age to lay over in your arms then toe nail cutting is not a daunting task. If your pet is not used to being handled then you could be entering into a battle with a tiny creature that isn't afraid to hurt you. Get the nail clippers. Turn the Bunny gently in your arms, If you got the bunny from me I would have shown and explained to you how to do this. If your bunny is on the large side then they can be laid on your lap whilst you sit on the floor, slide the bunny down between your legs so it is well supported by them. With the four offending items sticking up in the air, carefully clip the tip of the nail; do not go too far along the length of the nail, even if it has grown a little long. Unless the nerve is very clearly visible, which is often not the case with rabbits that have darker claws, you must be careful. Trim back slowly, taking a little at a time. On a dark nailed bunny just cut what is shown beyond the fur line of the foot. If you accidentally go too deep and cut the quick, dip a cotton swab in styptic powder, like Trimmex and dab it against the bleeding nail to stop the blood flow. If in any doubt then please get your Vet to cut your bunnies toe nails, or show you how.
Breaking the Boredom
Rabbits are adventurous and inquisitive animals and need to be kept stimulated whilst in their cages. We recommend you introduce toys to stop deter boredom. We use rabbit garlands and also toys such as balls with bells in the middle and willow balls. These can be found in any pet shop but we recommend “Wilkinsons” rabbit section. They have a large amount of rabbit toys for your new addition to play with.
Weather conditions
Rabbits can be kept indoors or out. Preferably, they should not be moved in and out for long periods of time as they will get used to the temperature only to be moved again, this could make your rabbit sick. If they are placed outdoors, they will do extremely well as they can tolerate sub-zero temperatures. They do need to be kept out of drafts and kept dry. Rabbits always need proper ventilation, whether outside or inside. During the summer months, the housing should be kept in the shade as rabbits do not tolerate heat very well. You can provide your bunny with a frozen bottle to lye against, this will help him/her to stay cool. In the winter you can put plastic around the outside of the hutch and leave the bottom open for ventilation. The plastic will stop the wetness from getting in and protect the animal from the wind. Also, be sure he/she has plenty of dry, clean bedding in the box. You can add some straw in winter but we use hay as this can be used to eat or to keep your rabbits warm. Cages or hutches can also be placed in garages, basements, barns, sheds, etc. Remember, however, there must always be good ventilation and it should be easy for you to access the cages for taking care of your rabbit.
Keeping Rabbits Together
* We prefer rabbits to be housed in pairs as they are pack animals by nature. However, 2 does (female rabbits) will live quite happily together but once they reach sexual maturity (around 6 months) it is best to have them spayed as they can become aggressive and domineering.
* It isn’t recommended to have 2 bucks together as they will tolerate each other in an open area like an indoor/outdoor run but generally prefer their own living space. You can however have them neutered which can calm them down. In most cases if your rabbit is an “indoor” pet which will be handled daily then they are fine without a companion but if outdoors and not handled daily they would be better with a friend.
* 2 does will quite happily become lifelong friends if placed together at a young age. Older rabbits tend to become territorial making it more difficult to introduce a friend later on.
When your Rabbit becomes an Adult
Female/Male rabbits should be neutered when they reach 6 months old. Spaying your female rabbit is extremely important because as many as 85% of adult does die of reproductive cancers if they are not neutered. All our rabbits that are not used for breeding are all spayed and neutered! It is important to realize that the changes in behaviour associated with sexual maturity do not suddenly disappear - female rabbits take a couple of months to generally calm down, and male bunnies may continue to spray for a few months after being neutered.
* Not all aggression is caused by hormones. Neutering is particularly important if you have more than one rabbit. It will of course prevent unwanted pregnancy, and make it possible for two or more rabbits to live happily together. A neutered pair of bunnies can form a strong bond and often spend a lot of time huddling together and grooming each other. Two bunnies who have grown together (even siblings) can suddenly become hostile and very aggressive towards each other. This can result in serious injury to one or both of the rabbits, and them losing the bond they had forever. Neutering both rabbits can prevent this happening, providing it is done early enough. Neutering after the event may help but there is no guarantee that their friendship will be restored.
* Many facts of your rabbit’s sexuality will remain post neutering, but in a gentler more subdued form. The extent of the sexual activity really depends on your rabbit’s personality before neutering. Many neutered rabbits retain a certain amount of sexual interest and may continue some courting behaviour - a spayed doe is more tolerant of a buck’s advances than an un-spayed doe will be. Some rabbits lose all interest in sexual activity but their need for cuddles and affection, from humans and play mates alike, remains the same.
Sexing Rabbits
We do our best to try and ensure the sex of the rabbits is correct and they are checked over the last few weeks before they leave. It is sometimes difficult to sex them, they appear to be one sex and then suddenly look different. We cannot 100% guarantee the sex but we will try. If we do get it wrong and the sale is not wanted we would return the deposit paid.
In the first 2 days of introducing your bunny to its new home we ask that you refrain from handing him/her to enable them to get used to their new surroundings and settle in. Rabbits can become stressed quite easily so it is imperative they are given time to adjust before being handled.
Hutch Size Guidelines
* The hutch must allow plenty of room for the rabbit to turn around in as well. Rabbits stand up on their back legs to check their environment is safe.
* The rabbit hutch should be long enough for the rabbit to take at least 3-4 hops without bumping its nose on the end
* The rabbit hutch should be tall enough to allow your rabbit to do this without being hunched over or folding its ears against the roof.
* A relaxed rabbit will fully stretch out when resting. The rabbit hutch should be wide enough to allow you rabbit to lie with its legs stretched.
Food & Water
* We feed our bunnies on Dr Johnsons rabbit nuggets which can be found from most pets stores. Nuggets are preferred as they don’t allow the bunnies to be picky about the food (unlike mixed foods). We also mix in barley rings and dried grass.
* If you give your rabbit fresh fruit or vegetables do this slowly and only once or twice a week. DO NOT feed baby rabbits fresh food as their stomachs will be unable to tolerate it straight away. You can introduce it slowly at around 4-5 months old.
* Clean water must be accessible to rabbits at all times. A sipper water bottle is the best choice because it cannot be contaminated with bedding, food, faeces and urine. Rabbits unfamiliar with a sipper bottle may have to be trained to use it.
* It is not necessary to add vitamins to the water if the recommended diets are followed. The disadvantages of adding vitamins to the water include; making the water taste disagreeable and promoting bacterial growth.
Caring for your new Baby rabbit
After the initial settling in stage you can handle your rabbit daily. All our baby rabbits are handled daily from 12 days old so are used to human contact. If being handled by a child we recommend the child is sat down.. This ensures if the rabbit is dropped at any point it won’t get injured. In most cases the baby rabbit will just snuggle in one area but they can be a little adventurous sometimes and have no sense of danger!
Litter Training
* All our bunnies are given litter trays as soon as they are out of the nest. Rabbits are very clean by nature – in the wild they relieve themselves in the same spots and don’t soil inside of their burrows. Domestic rabbits too tend to deposit their urine or pellets in just one or two places and respond well to litter training. Some rabbits learn to use a litter tray by themselves but most need a little help from their carers. Most rabbits quickly learn to urine in a tray, but will still scatter a few droppings on the floor. This is normal bunny behaviour and the few odourless droppings can be removed easily. * We recommend using Wood based cat litter as this absorbs the smell of urine. DO NOT use ordinary cat litter as the dust can cause respiratory problems for your bunny. If in any doubt you can use normal wood shavings.
Dental Care
* The most common complaint is overgrown molars and enamel spurs that grow from teeth. These spurs generally develop because rabbits aren't eating enough forage and hay. These naturally-abrasive, fibre-rich foods are important because they wear down the teeth. Rabbits' teeth grow continuously by an astonishing 2mm every week, or 10-12cm every year.
* Teeth should be checked monthly for any problems. Providing you have a healthy bunny from day one, when buying or re-homing a bunny always check its teeth before committing to it. If it is a rabbit from us we will show you the rabbit’s teeth and how to check them.
* Most problems are either down to incorrect feeding, or an injury. Providing your bunny with plenty of hay and grasses in their diet with rabbit food kept at a minimum. Also Provide your bunny with wood and toys to chew, if your rabbit keeps pulling and chewing at the bars of their cage, provided more simulation or out time to discourage this behaviour as this can damage the alignment of the rabbit's teeth.
Bottom Care
* If you are feeding your bunny correctly it will keep its bottom nice and clean, if you trained your bunny to turn in your arms a quick daily check will be sufficient. If your bunny is a little sticky down below, ease the worse off with baby wipes, then cover with a dry shampoo, rubbing in to the damp soiled areas, and then gently comb the powder and poo out. If your bunny is in a real mess, then you may have to rinse the bottom under a warm running tap or wash in a shallow bowl, do not get the whole bunny wet. Then dry with a towel and use the powder and comb through, do not make your bunny sore. In the winter months the rabbit will have to stay indoors. You then need to think what have you changed that could of upset your bunny. You may need to remove all the bunnies' food just leaving hay for the rabbit to nibble on, until the rabbit is producing hard poo.
* Make sure your rabbit is drinking. If there is no change and the rabbit is still getting messy please consult your vet. Remember Diarrhoea can kill. Use the Fly Guard if your rabbit regular suffers with a messy bum.
Toe Nail Care
* Rabbits need their nails/claws trimmed regularly, Rabbits have constantly growing nails, and if they are left to grow unchecked, they can lead to health problems and pain for your rabbit. If you're new to rabbit keeping, you may find that clipping the nails is a scary proposition. You don't want to hit the nerve and make your darling rabbit bleed. If you have trained your bunny from a young age to lay over in your arms then toe nail cutting is not a daunting task. If your pet is not used to being handled then you could be entering into a battle with a tiny creature that isn't afraid to hurt you. Get the nail clippers. Turn the Bunny gently in your arms, If you got the bunny from me I would have shown and explained to you how to do this. If your bunny is on the large side then they can be laid on your lap whilst you sit on the floor, slide the bunny down between your legs so it is well supported by them. With the four offending items sticking up in the air, carefully clip the tip of the nail; do not go too far along the length of the nail, even if it has grown a little long. Unless the nerve is very clearly visible, which is often not the case with rabbits that have darker claws, you must be careful. Trim back slowly, taking a little at a time. On a dark nailed bunny just cut what is shown beyond the fur line of the foot. If you accidentally go too deep and cut the quick, dip a cotton swab in styptic powder, like Trimmex and dab it against the bleeding nail to stop the blood flow. If in any doubt then please get your Vet to cut your bunnies toe nails, or show you how.
Breaking the Boredom
Rabbits are adventurous and inquisitive animals and need to be kept stimulated whilst in their cages. We recommend you introduce toys to stop deter boredom. We use rabbit garlands and also toys such as balls with bells in the middle and willow balls. These can be found in any pet shop but we recommend “Wilkinsons” rabbit section. They have a large amount of rabbit toys for your new addition to play with.
Weather conditions
Rabbits can be kept indoors or out. Preferably, they should not be moved in and out for long periods of time as they will get used to the temperature only to be moved again, this could make your rabbit sick. If they are placed outdoors, they will do extremely well as they can tolerate sub-zero temperatures. They do need to be kept out of drafts and kept dry. Rabbits always need proper ventilation, whether outside or inside. During the summer months, the housing should be kept in the shade as rabbits do not tolerate heat very well. You can provide your bunny with a frozen bottle to lye against, this will help him/her to stay cool. In the winter you can put plastic around the outside of the hutch and leave the bottom open for ventilation. The plastic will stop the wetness from getting in and protect the animal from the wind. Also, be sure he/she has plenty of dry, clean bedding in the box. You can add some straw in winter but we use hay as this can be used to eat or to keep your rabbits warm. Cages or hutches can also be placed in garages, basements, barns, sheds, etc. Remember, however, there must always be good ventilation and it should be easy for you to access the cages for taking care of your rabbit.
Keeping Rabbits Together
* We prefer rabbits to be housed in pairs as they are pack animals by nature. However, 2 does (female rabbits) will live quite happily together but once they reach sexual maturity (around 6 months) it is best to have them spayed as they can become aggressive and domineering.
* It isn’t recommended to have 2 bucks together as they will tolerate each other in an open area like an indoor/outdoor run but generally prefer their own living space. You can however have them neutered which can calm them down. In most cases if your rabbit is an “indoor” pet which will be handled daily then they are fine without a companion but if outdoors and not handled daily they would be better with a friend.
* 2 does will quite happily become lifelong friends if placed together at a young age. Older rabbits tend to become territorial making it more difficult to introduce a friend later on.
When your Rabbit becomes an Adult
Female/Male rabbits should be neutered when they reach 6 months old. Spaying your female rabbit is extremely important because as many as 85% of adult does die of reproductive cancers if they are not neutered. All our rabbits that are not used for breeding are all spayed and neutered! It is important to realize that the changes in behaviour associated with sexual maturity do not suddenly disappear - female rabbits take a couple of months to generally calm down, and male bunnies may continue to spray for a few months after being neutered.
* Not all aggression is caused by hormones. Neutering is particularly important if you have more than one rabbit. It will of course prevent unwanted pregnancy, and make it possible for two or more rabbits to live happily together. A neutered pair of bunnies can form a strong bond and often spend a lot of time huddling together and grooming each other. Two bunnies who have grown together (even siblings) can suddenly become hostile and very aggressive towards each other. This can result in serious injury to one or both of the rabbits, and them losing the bond they had forever. Neutering both rabbits can prevent this happening, providing it is done early enough. Neutering after the event may help but there is no guarantee that their friendship will be restored.
* Many facts of your rabbit’s sexuality will remain post neutering, but in a gentler more subdued form. The extent of the sexual activity really depends on your rabbit’s personality before neutering. Many neutered rabbits retain a certain amount of sexual interest and may continue some courting behaviour - a spayed doe is more tolerant of a buck’s advances than an un-spayed doe will be. Some rabbits lose all interest in sexual activity but their need for cuddles and affection, from humans and play mates alike, remains the same.
Sexing Rabbits
We do our best to try and ensure the sex of the rabbits is correct and they are checked over the last few weeks before they leave. It is sometimes difficult to sex them, they appear to be one sex and then suddenly look different. We cannot 100% guarantee the sex but we will try. If we do get it wrong and the sale is not wanted we would return the deposit paid.